唐顿庄园中的礼仪

每个国家的基础礼仪深深地影响着国家氛围与特色文化。例如此纪录片中贵族孩子的养育方式，决定了英国 人与人心灵的隔阂感。这种隔阂感也体现在交流方式上，如同此片中提到的“英国人说出口的语言往往不是他们真正想表达的”、“美国人认为新时代已至，想说什么不必憋着”等等。 不同阶层需要掌握的礼仪规范是不一样的。在贵族们肉眼可见的范围内，一切都是井然有序、从容悠闲、高贵得体、容不得违反规则的；在其看不到的地方，则在相对较少的规范内，充满着为了贵族拥有贵族生活而付出的努力、各种细节与鸡毛蒜皮，和偶尔的忙乱。 唐顿庄园中，楼上楼下分隔出了两个世界。上层悠闲、美好却遥远，下层忙碌而贴近生活。一战后，阶层壁垒逐渐松动，两个世界相互靠近。当今的世界正是这两种截然不同的生活的融合，于我等来说似乎是一种好的变化。 和平盛世，可以过度关注艺术、外在的礼仪等等，而这种过度繁华中又会蕴藏着乱世的火种。一旦战争开始，文明秩序会迅速退步，下一个新世界的规则开始建立。这种历史周期不断循环往复。

曾经看过《唐顿庄园》原剧的第一集，没能坚持看下去。于我而言，这个纪录片似乎是懒得看原剧的绝好专题总结与替代品。

出于对《唐顿庄园》的喜爱，所以对爱德华时期的这些贵族礼仪也很感兴趣。记得当时看了一条微博上，在拍摄《唐顿庄园》期间，其取景地海克利城堡（Highclere Castle）的主人就开始吐槽说《唐顿庄园》的排场不够大。当时我就蒙圈了，这排场还不行，那当时的真实情况估计华丽奢侈到令人发指吧。所以就开始看这部记录片喽。

本片由《唐顿庄园》的历史顾问Alastair Bruce从就餐礼仪、婚姻大事、言行举止、着装要求、工作责任这几个方面讲述爱德华时代的贵族礼仪。细节决定成败，尤其是一部历史剧更应如此，每个情节都经得起推敲实属不易。

个人觉得片子中下面几段话很能满足我们的好奇心。

1、The reason we take such trouble with the dining room scenes is that they say grace at the beginning and that makes it the Lord's table.

And all the detail and sumptuous display and the manners reflect the struggle that they all have to achive a similarly perfect moral approach to life.The immaculate presentation was a statement of moral correctness to all.（所有这些繁琐的礼节、奢华的炫耀都反映了他们是如何想方设法来实现一种近乎完美且合乎道德的生活方式。这种无可挑剔的礼仪是在展示道德的正确。）

2、A young lady could not marry until she had been presented at court.It was the start of a busy year known as her "coming out".（年轻的贵族小姐要在宫廷里觐见国王之后才能结亲,觐见标志着成人礼社交季的开始，贵族小姐们将度过无比忙碌的一年。）

3、I love the glorious formality of Edwardian life.The rules they had to behave by were a mixture of straightforward practicality and fear.（我热爱爱德华时代那种恪守礼节的生活方式，那些他们必须遵守的规矩，既有明确的实用性，也暗含贵族的恐惧。）

《Downtown Abby》中公爵对玛丽小姐说“You're my daring daughter and I love you.Hard as it is for an Englishman to say the words.”从中英国人的含蓄、内敛显露无疑。

接下来这段话解释了英国人典型的“国民性格”是有原因的。

The British hadn't always maintained a stiff upper lip.Only a century earlier,the passions of French Revolution so terrified the British aristocracy that a cool reserve became the defination of good character.There was a very real fear that without formality,the authority of the aristocracy could slip and the society would fall apart.So the aristocracy cultivated manners that protected their position.（英国人倒不是一直都这么冷淡矜持。仅仅一个世纪前，激情澎湃地法国大革命另英国贵族们胆战心惊，以至于他们将冷淡矜持推广为一种优良品质。这想法实则暗含贵族们的恐惧，他们担心如果没有了那些严格的规矩束缚，贵族的权威将不复存在，而整个社会体系也会分崩离析。所以贵族阶层苦心恪守各种规矩其实是为了保住他们的地位。）

4、Clothes mattered to the Edwardians,because every detail meant something.
The aristocracy wore impractical,high--maintenance clothing that proclaimed privilege.（贵族的衣服都华而不实，需要精心打理，但这都显示出贵族的特权。）
It sort of said,"I don't have to do any work and I have help putting this on."A great deal of effect went in to making sure that ladies and gentlemen appeared effortless.And why?Because it said,"we're in charge."

1.ABOUTTHEFILM

--Shows the true to British‘s past--experton British royal ceremony英国皇室礼仪专家

In case to cast and crew on set at Downton Abbey~~

The life of the people in downton abbey are aglory of rirual and grandeur.极尽奢华

The aristictocrats of Edwardian England and their servants lived by a very odd set of rules, a world away from the way we behave today.

Manners came into everything~

every detail mattered, it said who you were and where you belonged. were you from above stairs or below?

e.i.

you are a footman, and a footman wears gloves.

e.i.

-Don't call her "your Grace", callher "duchess".

-If I were to search for logic, I should not look for it among the English upper class.

The manners of DT, are not just about how to addressa duchess, or which knife and fork to pich up.

They're much more important than that.It's key to how these people lived.

Edwardian England was a time of great change. Both the industrial revolution and the great war has altered everything.

It seemed that centuries of tradition were all passing away. For the aristocracy, they felt they would lose all of it.

2.ALL THE MANNERS 各类礼仪

● HOW TO EAT

--The Edwardians liked to eat sumptuously.showing offwas a part of it.

But it was not all about the glorious food.

·The ritual of the dining room was at the center of their lives.

"you sitting up straight, your evening gloves are on your lap, hidden under neath your napkin. you don't rest your hands on the table, you have to remember which course you're on for which wine."

red, water, white glasses

-"we always have three glasses, and there's the larger one for the red, slightly smaller for water, and then even smaller for the white wine."

-"the main thing I had to learn I think wasposture, was this idea of sitting up straight.(absolutely bolt up right.)

The back of the chair was never for anyone to lean back on.

-that's purely decorative, and it's purely so that the footman has something to hold. Nannies used to put lnives here, to make children sit up straight.

understanding your cutlery was essential. failure to know your knives might lead to an embarrassing moment.

tea spoon, eggspoon, melonspoon ,grapefruit spoon, jam spoon, bouillon spoon (which is drunk from a smaller dish.)

-all the detail and sumptuous display and the manners reflect the struggle that they all have to achieve a similarly perfect moral approach to life.

·The immaculate presentation was a statement of moral correctness to all.

这种无可挑剔的礼仪是在展示道德的正确

-The Edwardians prized complexity. Perfection takes many hours, as it did for the Edwardian servants.

-Things have to be measured, so carson has arod with measurements on it, and that determines the place settings between each palce and the next, between the chair and the plate. everything is measured out precisely.

尺子用来测量盘子和刀叉，椅子和盘子之间的距离。一切都测量得精确。

-Each bulter would have a measuring stick to mark excatly where the table settings were in relation to each other.

-So,you'd start off by just taking the first mark and moving in the edge of the first knife. and then you'd be able to bring all the others in and then just bring it straight up to that line.

首先，确定一个标准，然后移动第一把餐刀，接着是所有的，只要靠在这条直线上就行。

-They didn't use their fingers without gloves on because otherwise it would have left a mark on the silver. and on the measuring points, they should be absolutely equidistant.

-When it's all perfect, the last thing they did was take a certain length and bring the chair out.

·NOTHING SUCCEEDS LIKE EXCESS.

-the point of a sumptuous table was toimpress their guests.一场豪华盛宴就是为了让客人赞叹。

-downstairs，who served what was also are flection of where power lay.

楼下的仆人们来说，谁来上哪道菜反映出谁大权在握。

first footman always take the meat. second footman will bring out the second, the sort of the sidedish or the vag.

第一男仆上荤菜第二男仆上第二道菜，通常是佐菜或素菜。

-The footman should be invisible. nothing interferes with the sociability of the table.

男仆尽量没有存在感，不打扰餐桌上的社交氛围。

-No one ever takes a bite before the hostess dose.在女主人动刀叉之前，没人敢动刀叉。

-She will decide which direction the conversation is going.她决定谈话的方向。

-Turning in dinner,meaning that the conversation will start in aparticular direction.在用餐时转身意味着可以开始与身边的人进行交谈。

The apparently effortless ritual of the dining room disguised its true purpose. it was a place to influence, a place to exercise power,a place to find a husband.

这些看似不着痕迹的餐桌礼仪却掩盖着它的真实目的。餐厅是一个显示声望，展示权利之地，也是找的如意郎君的地方。

● HOW TO MARRY

--Marriage among the ruling classes of Great Britain was seldon about love, but it was always about power and land.

大不列颠统治阶级的婚姻,很少与爱情相关，主要是以获取权利和土地为目的。

Land must, above all, be kept in one piece.土地不可分割。

In order to give a man the income to live by and the right by which he could rule the country.以保证男性继承人的收入来源和统治权力。

Women had absolutely no position or power until they were married, so they had to find a man who did.女人在结婚前没有地位和权利，所以她们必须嫁个有权有势的男人。

A young lady could not marry until she had been presented at court. it was the start of a busy year known as her "comingout".

年轻的贵族小姐要在宫廷里觐见陛下之后才能结亲。觐见标志着“成人礼”社交季的开始。

-You had a train over your hair, and the length of the train was absolutely, to a centimeter, controlled.

小姐们头上要戴头纱，而且头纱的长度有严格的要求,误差要在一厘米以内。

-from shoulder to floor,trains measured no less than three yard.从肩到脚长度不少于三码。

dressed up in white全身素白signified purity象征纯洁

with your feathers头饰羽毛

it's all really specific, how many feathers you have in your hair.羽毛数量也有讲究，依人而定。

number of feathers said who was who羽毛数量暗示身份

-Unmarried young ladies wore two,married chaperones wore three未婚少女戴两支已婚女性监护人戴三支

-A young lady's presentation to the king and queen was herentry into society.觐见是正式进入社交圈的开始。

It signaled she had the monarch's blessing as a suitable wife.它标志着她已经获得君主的赐福，会成为一个贤德的妻子。

Burke's Peerage《伯客氏贵族系谱》--a list of every title daristoc

-a combination of background cherk and bloodline,a nessential tool for making a match.

·the system they trapped in was a set of rules.束缚他们的制度由一套规则构成。

e.i.how little emotion you're allowed to show.

-you are not allowed to laugh, you're not allowed to love, certainly not allowed to cry.

·courtship is not permitted amongst servants

● HOW TO BEHAVE

·The rules they had to behave by were a mixture of straight forward practicality and fear.

他们遵循的行为规则有明确的实用性也暗含贵族的恐惧。

e.i.Just shake hands to express their emotions

e.i.You are my daughter and i love you, hard for british people to say these words.

The British hadn't always maintained as tiffupperlip.英国人倒不是一直都这么冷淡矜持

a centre yearlier, the passions of the French Revolutions oterrified the British aristocracy that a cool reserve become the definition of good character.法国大革命令英国贵族胆战心惊，以至于他们将冷淡矜持推行为一种优良品质。

there was a very real fear that without formality, the authority of the aristocracy would slip and society would fall apart.他们恐惧没有这种规矩约束，贵族的权威将不复存在，整个社会将分崩离析。

so,the aristocracy cultivated manners that protected their position.为了保住他们的地位

·Be very rude to be posh. So the rule was silent appreciation.

e.i.we don't say thank you for things.

when you're given a cup of tea, you wouldn't acknowledge the person who's giving it to you.

you pretend that they're not there.

贵族每天被服务30多次，每次都要说谢谢有点太多了==

e.i.the servants that pride themselves on being the best servants, are practically, you know, invisible in those moments.

the first rule of being a servant upstairs is discretion.第一条规则：要谨记的是守口如瓶。

terrified with scannal because the newspapers had just discovered how marketable gossip could be.绯闻的商机

for the first time, tittle-tattle wasn't just local; the whole country could suddenly know your shame.

the second is never to burden your master with your own problems.第二条规则：永远不要给你的主人添麻烦。

e.i.想恳求，想说“拜托了只要我能做的我都尽力去做。”但实际上不能这么说，也不会这么说。

-Might i make a suggestion that when an extra footman is required, the costs could come out of my wages. 府上添置另外的仆人，佣金可以从我的工资里面扣

because i am very eager to stay, m'lord. very eager indeed.

-i mean to help until you find something.

there's a finality to that, that both men know.

"It would be unseemly, it would be crude to be emotional, and to impose that on somebody would put them in an awkward position."

展现情绪是粗鲁的不得体的，把自己的情绪强加给对方会使双方进退两难。

e.i.Servants gives emotional support to their masters and mistresses.

If the servants face troubles, they'd probably face them alone.

e.i.For a working-classes woman, all she has was reputation.

·It's a strange relationship between servants and masters--very close but bound by rules.

-never ask a person nal question.

-never prompt a conversation.

-certainly wouldn't say anything judgmental about lordship's actions or thoughts.

● HOW TO DRESS

·Every detail meant something.

the aristocracy wore impractical, high-maintenance clothing that proclaimed privilege.

不实用，需要细心打理，但这显示出贵族的特权。

--it sort of said, "i don't have to do any work and i have help putting this on."

--we are in charge.

ladies' dress was extra vagantly elaborate and guided by my riadrules.

you only wear a tiara if you're married.

you have to leave your gloves on like pre- and post-dinner.

traveling gloves and dinner gloves and riding gloves.

such dress codes began centuries earlier in the sumptuary laws.几个世纪前的节约法令规定了一些着装要求。

these originally forbade anyone but them obility from wearing things like furor silk.除了贵族其他人不准穿毛皮和丝绸。

除了换衣服也做不了其他事情了

束胸衣

to freely move think talk eat do everything

·The clothes you wear alter the way you thinking

hats were terribly important. your hats said who you were.

if you were somewhere at the top of society--you were an aristocrat with a hugehouse--you were allowed to wear a top hat for smart occasions.出席正式场合可以戴大礼帽。

you'd wear whatever was comfortable because you had the money and the capability go through all

the different fashionable hats that were available, right down to the clothcap, which if you were a working class man is where you'd stay.布帽是工人阶级的常见装束。

a bowler hat圆顶礼帽

a trilby软毡帽

·Partof their"going out of doors"routine.

You use it as a means of being polity,normally just doffed your hat at somebody对他人致意时只需用手碰一下帽檐out of courtesy, or a woman.

If you have conversation with someone of your own degree, you'd take yourhatoffandyou'dtalktothem.与同阶层的人交谈，需要脱下帽子与他们交谈

● HOW TO MAKE MONEY

--They live off their land, and not having to find a job. The land made you money and life is good.

But their undisputed status as lords of the manor was threatened by men with new money

但是受封贵族们无可争辩的地位受到了暴发户们的威胁

:(ambitious men with pretentions to grandeur

派头十足野心勃勃

new money was loud, strident and successful.)

暴发户们是那些咋咋呼呼不可一世的成功人士

·the aristocracy had to counter this by labeling any mention of money as common.

谈及金钱的话题当做庸俗之举。

贵族的威胁：

Grains upplies from North America drove down the value of crops,进口粮食

tax reforms thearened inherited wealth.税制改革

·Knowing your place was the first rule and the last.

it's the point from which all manners sprang.

it's wasn't just the lower orders who had to know where they belonged; the aristocrats had to get it right too.不仅仅是佣人，贵族行事也需符合身份

e.i.your mother derives satisfaction from her work at the hospital, some sense of self-worth.would you really deny the same to poor old Molesley?

And when you are master here,is the butler to be dismissed or the footman?解雇管家和男仆

we all have different parts to play. and we must all be allowed to play them.

·The key to the aristocrat's view of the world was not privilege; it was duty.

The point of an aristocrat was to be of use to the land he owned and its people.

It was the perfect balance between privilege and responsibility.

3.CONCLUTIONS

The real secret behind the manners of DT, and the thing we all wor so hard to get right is that for them, this waseffortless.

Alstair Bruce, historian, expert on British royal ceremony礼仪
It's a constant struggle, which I adore. 过程麻烦不断，但是我喜欢；
The body language was very restrained,It's not polite to sort of slouch;
It's a very dog-eat-dog world amongst the staff;仆人之间竞争残酷
Don't call her "Your Grace",call her "Duchess";公爵夫人
If I were to search for logic, I should not look for it among the English upper class(Dowager);
Not worse than a maid serving a duke(Carson);
without that we would be like the wild men of Borneo(Countess),婆罗洲，加里曼丹岛旧称
Dinner is served, Your Ladyship(Carson);
Dinning:sit up straight, gloves on lap underneath napkin, hands never on the table,remember which course you are on for which wine;
Three glasses, bigger one for red wine, small one for water, even smaller one for white wine;
The back of chair was never for anyone to lean back on,purely decorative, footman has sth to hold;
cutlery餐具
teaspoon, egg spoon, melon spoon, grapefruit spoon, jam spoon, bouillon spoon肉羹匙
she'll be fit as a flea tmr生龙活虎
say grace 祝祷
sumptuous display奢华的炫耀
The immaculate presentation was a statement of moral correction 无可挑剔的礼仪展示
Carson has a rod with measurement on it, and that determines the place settings btw each place and the next, btw the chair n the table, btw the plate n glasses;
The didn't use their fingers without gloves on.不戴手套不碰餐具
downstairs who serves what was also a reflection of where power lay;
First footmen always take the meat荤菜
男仆的工作没什么技术含量，作用多是显示主人家的气派和涵养，so个字高的身材好长相好的能拿到更多的工钱；
choreography编排指导
look poised 镇定自若
第一男仆等第二男仆上前，同时躬身上菜；
No one takes a bite before Cora does, the hostess;
hostess turn,guests can turn in a particular direction for conversation to make fair.

Marriage was always about power and land;land must, above all, be kept in one piece(income&right to rule);
You can't be serious;你没在开玩笑吧
a man who can barely hold his knife like a gentleman?餐桌做礼仪都不懂的男人？
Oh,you exaggerate
Women had absolutely no position or power until they were married;
A young lady could not marry until she had been presented at court;在宫廷觐见陛下后
“coming out”成人礼舞会
You had a train over your hair, and the length of the train was absolutely, to a cm, controlled,From shoulder to floor, no less than 3 yards ;头纱
The no. of feathers said who was who.显示身份 unmarried young ladies wore 2,married chaperones wore 3;
A young lady's presentation to the king & queen was her entry into society, she has the monarchy blessing as a suitable wife;
"the seasons"社交季
eligible men如意郎君
women wouldn't have clinked their glasses\cheers;say"your good health"祝您健康
posh bible贵族圣经书 nothing to do with money, but about your lineage and your line:a marriage that enhanced the family;
A system they are trapped in:How little emotion you are allowed to show
Courtship is not permitted amongst servants, it was frowned upon不为人赞成；
marriage challenged your loyalty to the family, service had to be your life;+practical reason:
Men and women had separate sleeping quarters in the house;
单独外出见男人was to risk their good name forever;
no wearing gloves was practically naked;
British hadn't always maintained a stiff upper lip.冷淡矜持
says with conviction坚定不疑
to follow through everything you say言出必行
You have to be incredibly rude to be an Edwardian; you have to be very rude to be posh.
with a blank face 面无表情，没反应
to be utterly discreet 守口如瓶
tittle-tattle wasn't just local 从前流言蜚语只是在。。。
a pariah from society 社會棄兒
The second rule is to never burden your master with your own trouble.
There's a finality to that. 一切已成定局；
I see any way around it无能为力
Him least of all 最不要告诉他
bring dispute on herself
I took a walloping from Mr.Sampson. 输惨了。
You would never prompt a conversation. 先开口
there's a decorum there. 规矩重重
The aristocracy wore impractical华而不实，high-maintanence clothing proclaimed privilege
ladies and gentlemen appeared effortless. 优雅从容
ladies' dress is extravagantly elaborate and guided by myriad rules.
you're not getting the same amount of oxygen to your brain that you would normally. So it creates a very passive personality.
It's not so applicable now.Because we are now in 1924, and the clothes were giving us much more license to .....and I don't think it's a coincidence that women were suddenly demanding to have their opinions heard...because they could actually breathe.
For gentlemen: you have to screw yourself into a starch-ironed, cardboard kind of shirt.
No hands shaking at that time.
New money was loud,strident and successful.不可一世
















footman的名字来源于他要鞍前马后地跑，是butler，valet，三者中地位最低；
厨娘不受女主人管，女主人要添菜还的让女管家去通知，直接跑到厨房的女主人不懂礼；
餐具与桌边的距离 椅子离桌边的距离 都要用尺度量
人要笔直笔直地坐
厨房里地位高的端荤菜上桌，地位低的还没份端

帽子是身份的象征，上头的人怎么戴都行，无须show off，大家都知道你是landlord啦，下头的就只能戴戴cloth hat啦，bowler hat太贵啦
男士的衬衫也是如cardboard，不能bend，只能笔直站在那里
好在那个时代corset是不用了，


Girls spent much of their time changing
吃早饭，骑马，散步，吃晚饭不停换装
一定要带手套，根据不同场合

结婚才能带tiaria
Effortlessly 译为 与生具来的气质